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My Watch Photography...

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  • stektan
    replied
    Originally posted by Dfive View Post
    Hmmm.... I wish it was 42 any idea if it comes with a S/S Bracelet.

    Try a larger aperture bro, f16-22 or more.... keep it going your doing well
    oh mine comes with SS, I have an aftermarket conversion kit to leather strap. The watch may be 39mm but because of the design of the lugs, it it actually as big as an 44mm Pam on the wrist. That's why I sold my offshore as there were big gaps betw the watch and my wrist.

    Thanks for encouragement and yes, many more things to experiment!

    Leave a comment:


  • Dfive
    replied
    Hmmm.... I wish it was 42 any idea if it comes with a S/S Bracelet.

    Try a larger aperture bro, f16-22 or more.... keep it going your doing well

    Leave a comment:


  • stektan
    replied
    Yes all shots using manual focus and F11 -13 aperture. The black AP is a 15300, not sure what' the going price now but it's 39mm diameter.

    Leave a comment:


  • Dfive
    replied
    Are you using manual focus bro ? if not you should try.... focus on the dial face first.

    Nice AP, How much was yours ? What diam is it ?

    Leave a comment:


  • stektan
    replied
    Added some pictures of my AP Royal Oak as well. Definitely not as fantastic as the AP ladies watch. The AP royal oak 15300 is a really simple watch and the only outstanding features are clearly all from the rear!




    Leave a comment:


  • stektan
    replied
    Originally posted by triton View Post
    you may want to do a search on the threads i started in rolex and other watches showcase section. prior to 2012, most if not all the shots were taken using 100mm. the rest were taken using G12.
    Hmm...alot of your posts, so hard to search...any links please? Also, tried that reflective focus on the latest photo shoot..

    Leave a comment:


  • stektan
    replied
    This saturday's photo shoot involves another "model" from a friend. I have been bugging her to lent me her watch for some time and managed to get it this time. Loved the look on this ladies AP royal oak and wanted to bring out the white tile texture as well as "leaf dials". Of course, wanted some of the blink of the diamonds which fortunately wasn't too distracting. Here they are...





    It's a really beautiful watch!!

    Leave a comment:


  • stektan
    replied
    Originally posted by Dfive View Post
    Here are some good links for you bro.... study up for a bit, then go out and play till you NAIL IT !!!

    http://www.tabletopstudio.com/docume...hotography.htm

    http://www.mkdigitaldirect.com/tips/...aphy_tips.html

    And a VERY GOOD video:

    http://youtu.be/JP3ykBzk_RU

    ENJOY !!!
    Yep..thanks. I have actually read those site before I embarked on this "journey". Still trying to find the right lens and today, experimented with another 50mm lens but wasn't to my liking. Perhaps next will be to try a 100/105mm micro lens but that means must stand far away from the subject! Will post of my shots taken today.

    Leave a comment:


  • Dfive
    replied
    Here are some good links for you bro.... study up for a bit, then go out and play till you NAIL IT !!!

    http://www.tabletopstudio.com/docume...hotography.htm

    http://www.mkdigitaldirect.com/tips/...aphy_tips.html

    And a VERY GOOD video:

    http://youtu.be/JP3ykBzk_RU

    ENJOY !!!

    Leave a comment:


  • Dfive
    replied
    Originally posted by stektan View Post
    Hi thanks for the inputs..yes I'm beginning to realize that using a short focal macro Lens does not really work as some parts of the watch will blur out. Haven't tried a long focal macro lens yet but seems stange to take 100mm macro shots! The last few were taken using a normal 50mm lens but will experiment more..
    Sigma, Tokina, Tamron all have a nice and inexpensive macro in the 90-105 range.

    The Nikon Nikkor AF-S 105 has awesome sharpness !!

    Can I suggest renting a Tilt / Shift Macro Lens...... ask them to spend 30-60mins to show you how to use it, then spent a weekend ( $100-150 rental ) doing all your watches plus a few you "might" be able to borrow from mates.

    Get the lighting bright, and clean the watches before you snap away..... also get some cotton glove, this will allow you to tweak the watches into position that will look nice, with out all the fingerprints that WILL show up with any macro !

    Again have fun !!!!

    Leave a comment:


  • triton
    replied
    you may want to do a search on the threads i started in rolex and other watches showcase section. prior to 2012, most if not all the shots were taken using 100mm. the rest were taken using G12.

    Originally posted by stektan View Post
    Haven't tried a long focal macro lens yet but seems stange to take 100mm macro shots! The last few were taken using a normal 50mm lens but will experiment more..

    Leave a comment:


  • stektan
    replied
    Originally posted by Dfive View Post
    Nice shots.... if your keen into this you may want to try the following:

    Using DSLR, A Macro lens in the 105-200mm range ( the longer the more working distance you have ), OR what the pro's will use is a Macro Tilt shift lens ( expensive ) but is best, if not essential for jewelry and watches.

    You will always want to shoot at f16-f22 for the depth of field ( whats in focus ). Don't worry with a macro lens you'll still have the ideal "blurred effect".

    Very steady tripod using a cable release and always with even lighting... top, front, sides, etc.

    Lastly HAVE FUN...... The best photos are those YOU LIKE
    Hi thanks for the inputs..yes I'm beginning to realize that using a short focal macro Lens does not really work as some parts of the watch will blur out. Haven't tried a long focal macro lens yet but seems stange to take 100mm macro shots! The last few were taken using a normal 50mm lens but will experiment more..

    Leave a comment:


  • Dfive
    replied
    Nice shots.... if your keen into this you may want to try the following:

    Using DSLR, A Macro lens in the 105-200mm range ( the longer the more working distance you have ), OR what the pro's will use is a Macro Tilt shift lens ( expensive ) but is best, if not essential for jewelry and watches.

    You will always want to shoot at f16-f22 for the depth of field ( whats in focus ). Don't worry with a macro lens you'll still have the ideal "blurred effect".

    Very steady tripod using a cable release and always with even lighting... top, front, sides, etc.

    Lastly HAVE FUN...... The best photos are those YOU LIKE

    Leave a comment:


  • BreitMad
    replied
    Originally posted by stektan View Post
    And here are pictures of my Pam 351... Having some problems with taking the case back. Although aperature at 22, still blur in some areas. Guess it;s because of the Macro lens. Perhaps a 90 or 105mm lens would be better.









    Again, appreciate any advice to make it better..


    Very nice shots. Love it! Thanks for sharing man !

    Leave a comment:


  • myth_bird
    replied
    nice photos!
    like the first iwc and lange.

    Leave a comment:

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